Maintaining the grip tape on your skateboard isn't just about aesthetics; it's essential for maintaining grip and traction while riding and performing tricks. In our latest video, we tested two grip tape maintenance methods to see which one restores your skateboard's grip tape more effectively and quickly: industrial cleaning rubber and the classic homemade remedy of dried silicone tubing.
Here are the results of this technical comparison.
1. Industrial Cleaning Rubber
First, we'll look at the popular method using an industrial cleaning rubber. This method is the professional standard for dry cleaning. When using it, you'll feel an immediate grip on the porous surface. We recommend rubbing in one direction first; this will maintain the integrity of the sandpaper and prevent unnecessary damage.
The main reasons why we should use this method in only one direction are the following:
- Rubbing from back to front can cause the grip tape to lift, wrinkle, or peel off the board. By using only one direction, we prevent this from happening.
- This range of motion allows us to efficiently remove dirt. It allows dirt, wax, and dust to concentrate and be drawn out of the pores, instead of being redistributed across the board's surface. Rubbing in only one direction prevents premature wear of the grip tape. In contrast, if we were to rub in opposite directions, we could unnecessarily wear down the grip tape grit, reducing its grip and lifespan.
- Finally, this method allows for better cleaning of the grit, since the grip tape's structure has a specific direction. Therefore, rubbing in this way helps the rubber penetrate better between the grits without damaging them.
A little tip I'll leave you with is to always implement long, firm movements in your maintenance, applying pressure, always following the shape of the board's concave to remove all the accumulated dirt.
2. Dried Silicone Tube
Many riders often resort to dried-out silicone tubes as a budget-friendly alternative, but does it really work?
Unlike rubber, the sound is barely audible, indicating that it's not actually scraping off the dirt as it should. Instead of trapping the grime, it tends to leave silicone residue embedded between the grip tape grains. These bits are very difficult to remove and can seriously compromise the board's grip.
Furthermore, this method is much messier, as the residue comes off and remains on the board, requiring subsequent brushing.
Compared to professional rubber, this is a risky and inefficient method with several critical drawbacks:
- Being less dense than industrial rubber, dried silicone lacks the ability to "bite" and remove deep-seated dirt. Its action is superficial and often ineffective against serious grime.
- On the other hand, this method is much messier, as the residue flakes off and remains on the board, requiring subsequent brushing. Furthermore, as we've already explained, it can leave microparticles trapped between the grits of the sandpaper. If this happens, the sandpaper loses its abrasive texture and becomes slippery in those areas, compromising board control.
If you use this method, rest assured it's double the work and will take twice the time. Dried silicone leaves behind flakes that don't trap dust, so you'll end up needing an extra brush or compressed air to clean up the mess the silicone left behind. - On the other hand, a dedicated rubber cleaning block costs just a few euros and lasts much longer. Ruining quality sandpaper with silicone residue will force you to replace it entirely, which is much more expensive.
Therefore, here's a much more visual table of both alternatives, so you can see the pros and cons of each method:
| Carasteristics | Industrial Rubber (Grip Gum) | Dry Silicone Tube |
|---|---|---|
| Cleaning Action | It traps and pulls dirt out of the pores. | It displaces the dirt or covers it superficially. |
| Waste | It leaves no residue; it is consumed cleanly. | It leaves silicone particles between the grains. |
| Adherence (Grip) | Restores the original grip by releasing the grain. | It can reduce grip by making the surface slippery. |
| Dirt Level | Quick and easy dry cleaning. | Very dirty; it sheds shavings that require extra brushing. |
| Sound when using | Light scraping (sign that he is acting). | Imperceptible (no effective friction). |
| Cost/Benefit | Economical and durable (lasts for years). | "Free" (recycled), but it can ruin the sandpaper. |
In conclusion:
- Industrial rubber is specifically designed to penetrate the crevices of the abrasive grain and remove dust without contaminating the material.
- Dry silicone is a makeshift solution that often creates more work than it saves, as silicone residue is extremely difficult to remove once it hardens due to the heat of friction.
In short, we recommend investing in a professional industrial rubber bar designed for this purpose, as it ensures the sandpaper grain is exposed and clean without adding contaminants to your board.
